Champagne Castelnau, one of the region’s largest co-operatives, unveiled smart new livery for its cuvées this week at Sakagura Japanese restaurant in London.

I discovered Castelnau’s Champagnes only a year ago and was impressed by the range – from the well-balanced freshness of its Brut Réserve and classy Blanc de Blancs, to the understated power of its 2003 vintage. The producer is known for the amount of time the wine spend ageing on their lees – a key quality indicator, but a cash flow nightmare. The Brut Réserve, for example, spends six years on its lees, when the legal minimum is just fifteen months.

Now the smart Champagnes in the bottle are matched by a new, unfussy label design that allows it to stand out on the shelf.