This November, Champagne co-operative Jacquart launched the new edition of its prestige cuvée – Alpha 2012. The co-operative’s member growers draw on fruit from 300ha of vines across 60 villages in the appellation.
2012 is a good quality vintage with a charming combination of ripeness and freshness. While 2012’s will undoubtedly age well (and of course no-one would release their top cuvée from a year with limited prospects) they also have an immediately winning charm which makes them enjoyable already.
Cellar master Joëlle Weiss, who succeeds another woman, Floriane Eznack in this role, has made the interesting leap from journalism to winemaking. She explained the philosophy behind the house and the cuvée. Jacquart like to lean on Chardonnay and a modern, fresh style.
We also got to taste the house’s Blanc de Blancs 2014 – an important cuvée for a producer that puts great emphasis on Chardonnay in defining its style. 2014 was a less straightforward year than 2012, but this Blanc de Blancs provides great enjoyment now, with a backbone of acidity allied to well-defined citrus fruit and a cool minerality.
But Joëlle’s main mission was to introduce us proudly to the new baby: Alpha 2012. It was disgorged in 2020, with a dosage of 7g/l and is a blend of 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir. Served from magnum (this is the first time they are releasing Alpha in magnum). The charm of the vintage is immediately apparent, in its fine balance. Allied to depth of flavour, with preserved lemon, apple patisserie and an emerging umami note that makes this something to enjoy as both an aperitif and to accompany a meal. There is obviously no hurry to drink this now – but it is undoubtedly full of enjoyment already.
The full range of Champagne Jacquart is available at The Great Wine Company in the UK.
Fizzicality 