There is a host of under the radar Champagne producers and Castelnau is one of my favourites. I recently had the chance to taste a few of their cuvées and here’s what I thought.
Things you need to know:
- Champagne Castelnau is a co-operative, making Champagne on behalf of its grower members.
- They are known for ageing their cuvées for a long time before releasing them, giving them extra depth and complexity.
- Their chef de caves is Carine Bailleul, who took over from Elisabeth Sarcelet in 2021, so the hand on the tiller here since 2013 has been a female one
Castelnau Brut is a blend of all 3 Champagne grape varieties is a more than decent aperitif style. But the real interest, for me, begins with the Brut Réserve. The blend is 40% Chardonnay, 40% Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir, with 8g/l dosage and around 30% of reserve wines. It is aged for a minimum of 5 years on the lees (7 years in this case). It makes for a complete and satisfying Champagne experience: lively and fruity enough to enjoy on its own, but with the savoury, toasty and umami flavours to accompany plenty of different foods.
Brut Réserve is available from The Wine Society at £33 (down to £27.50 when you buy 6 bottles) And, full disclosure, it’s my “house” Champagne.
The Brut Rosé, 30% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir and 50% Meunier, includes 15% Meunier and Pinot Noir as red wine. The dominance of the red grapes means this has true red fruit character. It has a relatively short lees ageing period of 3 years, 20% of reserve wines and 8g/l dosage. The preponderance of Meunier makes me think that this is a Champagne that burns bright in its youth – so one to enjoy soon after purchasing to enjoy that rounded stone and berry fruit flavour.
Other than the Brut Réserve, these are Champagnes that you are most likely to come across in restaurants – so keep your eyes peeled!
Fizzicality 